A short history of Pondicherry

Puducherry means “new town” in Tamil. Its story is much older than the French town by the sea, and most of its chapters can still be seen.

An ancient port

The Periplus of the Erythraean Sea names a market port called Poduke on this coast, identified with Arikamedu, south of the city. Excavations there found Roman amphorae, lamps and glass; the settlement dates from the 2nd century BCE to the 8th century CE. Its finds are in the Puducherry Museum.

  1. Arikamedu Archaeological Site
    Jayaseerlourdhuraj · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Heritage

    Arikamedu Archaeological Site

    Ancient port and trading settlement at Kakkayanthope, about 4 km south of the city; finds from its excavations are in the Puducherry Museum.

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  2. Puducherry Museum
    Satdeep Gill · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Museum

    Puducherry Museum

    Museum in a French-period building near Bharathi Park, with one of the largest collections of Chola bronzes and finds from the excavations at Arikamedu.

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Tamil kingdoms

The region was ruled in turn by the Pallavas, the Cholas and the Pandyas, then by the Nayaks of Gingee under Vijayanagara and, from 1638, by the Sultan of Bijapur. Temples such as Thirukameeswarar at Villianur, with inscriptions of the 14th century, and the Manakula Vinayagar temple, older than the French settlement, belong to this long history.

  1. Thirukameeswarar Temple, Villianur
    Ssriram mt · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Temple

    Thirukameeswarar Temple, Villianur

    Shiva temple at Villianur where Shiva is worshipped as Kameeswarar and Parvati as Kokilambigai; its two-acre complex has inscriptions from the 14th century.

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  2. Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple
    Deepak-nsk · CC0
    Temple

    Sri Manakula Vinayagar Temple

    Ganesha temple in the old town, older than the French settlement and one of the best-known places of worship in Pondicherry.

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Europeans on the coast and French Pondicherry

Portuguese traders came in 1521, followed by the Dutch and the Danes. French administration began on 4 February 1673, and François Martin, the first governor, turned a fishing village into a port. The Dutch held the town from 1693 to 1699. Under Dupleix (1742–1754) Pondicherry was the capital of French ambitions in India; the Meerapalli mosque, the cathedral’s third church and the first St. Andrew’s Church date from these decades. In 1748 the Vedapureeswarar temple was destroyed, as Ananda Ranga Pillai recorded in his diary.

  1. Mosque

    Meeran Mosque (Meerapalli)

    Sufi mosque built in the first quarter of the 18th century, the oldest standing mosque in Pondicherry, beside the grave of its founder, the Sufi saint Meeran Saheb.

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  2. Immaculate Conception Cathedral
    BishkekRocks · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Church

    Immaculate Conception Cathedral

    Cathedral of the Roman Catholic Archdiocese of Pondicherry and Cuddalore, consecrated in 1791 and known locally as Samba Kovil.

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  3. St. Andrew’s Church, Reddiarpalayam
    Jayarathina · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Church

    St. Andrew’s Church, Reddiarpalayam

    Church first built in 1745 by Kanakaraya Mudali, dubash of the French East India Company, whose tomb is inside; believed destroyed in 1761 and rebuilt in 1830.

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  4. Vedapureeswarar Temple (Easwaran Koil)
    Arunankapilan · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Temple

    Vedapureeswarar Temple (Easwaran Koil)

    Shiva temple in the Tamil Quarter, destroyed in 1748 and rebuilt in 1788; with the Varadaraja Perumal temple close by, the nucleus around which the old town grew.

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Destroyed and rebuilt

The British captured and razed the town in 1761. Returned to France in 1765, it was rebuilt by Governor Jean Law de Lauriston on its former plan, with the canal separating the French Quarter by the sea from the Indian Quarter inland. The cathedral was consecrated in 1791, the Governor’s palace (today’s Lok Niwas) rose again beside the park, and after 1816 the town remained French until 1954. The Old Lighthouse (1836), Our Lady of Angels (1855), Aayi Mandapam, the railway to Villupuram (1879), the Basilica of the Sacred Heart (1907) and the French War Memorial (1938) all belong to this period.

  1. Bharathi Park
    iMahesh · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Park

    Bharathi Park

    Shaded park at the centre of the French Quarter, beside Lok Niwas (Raj Nivas), with the white Aayi Mandapam monument in the middle.

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  2. Old Lighthouse
    Dr. Ajay B. MD · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Heritage

    Old Lighthouse

    The French lighthouse on the Promenade: a 29-metre tower first lit on 1 September 1836, replaced in 1979 by the new lighthouse to the south.

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  3. Our Lady of Angels Church
    Aravindaraja · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Church

    Our Lady of Angels Church

    Église Notre-Dame-des-Anges on Dumas Street, built in 1855 in Greco-Roman style and facing the sea; mass is said here in French, Tamil and English.

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  4. Puducherry Railway Station
    BishkekRocks · CC BY-SA 3.0
    Railway station

    Puducherry Railway Station

    The city’s railway station (code PDY) on Subbiah Salai, terminus of the branch line from Villupuram opened in 1879.

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  5. Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus
    Pinakpani · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Church

    Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

    Gothic Revival basilica on the south boulevard, built from 1902 and known for its stained-glass panels of the life of Christ and the saints.

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  6. French War Memorial
    Richard Mortel · CC BY 2.0
    Monument

    French War Memorial

    Memorial on Goubert Avenue to the people of French India who died in the First World War, inaugurated in 1938 and lit up every year on 14 July.

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Poets, revolutionaries and the Ashram

French Pondicherry became a refuge from British India: the Tamil poet Subramania Bharathi lived here, as did Sri Aurobindo, who founded the Ashram with the Mother in 1926. The Ashram’s Golconde, completed in 1942, is counted the first modernist building in India.

  1. Museum

    Subramania Bharathi Memorial Museum

    House where the Tamil poet and freedom fighter Subramania Bharathi lived after taking refuge from the British in Pondicherry; now a museum of his works.

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  2. Sri Aurobindo Ashram
    Pinakpani · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Attraction

    Sri Aurobindo Ashram

    Spiritual community founded in 1926 by Sri Aurobindo and the Mother; the courtyard of its main building holds their samadhi.

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  3. Heritage

    Golconde

    Residence of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, completed in 1942 to designs by Antonin Raymond and George Nakashima and described as the first modernist building in India.

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Since 1954

French rule ended with the de facto transfer to India in 1954; the Treaty of Cession was signed on 28 May 1956 and kept the French Institute, founded in 1955, as a research centre. Auroville was founded to the north in 1968, and its Matrimandir was completed in 2008.

  1. Heritage

    French Institute of Pondicherry

    French research institute founded in 1955 and kept by the 1956 Treaty of Cession, known for its Indology collections; on the Ashram heritage walk.

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  2. Matrimandir, Auroville
    Matthew T Rader · CC BY-SA 4.0
    Place of worship

    Matrimandir, Auroville

    The golden sphere at the centre of Auroville, conceived by the Mother as the “Soul of the City” and completed in 2008. In Tamil Nadu, north of Pondicherry.

    In Tamil Nadu, outside the Union Territory of Puducherry

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